Hoping for Ant Eggs With Opening of Laurent Quenioux's Bistro LQ, Plus Other Changes on Beverly
Anne Fishbein Hare tomorrow? Laurent Quenioux at his old Bistro K.
A lot of people were saddened with the closing awhile back of Bistro K in South Pasadena, among them L.A. Weekly restaurant critic Jonathan Gold, who in 2006 wrote, "Bistro K, to put it plainly, is a restaurant out of a daydream, with a kitchen that may rank among the few dozen best in town." Late last year, Gold found Quenioux camping out at the well-loved restaurant Vermont, originally reviewed in 1999 by Michelle Huneven for the Weekly. But the news of the closing of another highly regarded French bistro, Mimosa, on Beverly Boulevard -- no more passing of the communal jars of olives and cornichons -- brings word that Quenioux will soon be returning with his own place, Bistro LQ, in the Mimosa space.
One question that many Quenioux watchers have in mind is: Will he serve the hare again? After all, wrote Gold, "There are few chefs in Los Angeles who have Quenioux's touch with game: a soft, gloriously stinky Scottish hare stewed in something approximating the traditional foie gras-inflected blood; the most delicate roast squab with eggplant; a wonderful, substantive braised boar shank; a whole-roasted red-leg partridge with the funky, steroidal, locker-room smack of the best shot game."
And what about those ant eggs we heard so much about?
Other news from the Beverly Boulevard restaurant zone: Pastis is closing in June to be replaced by a new venture called House. And Quinn and Karen Hatfield will soon relocate their restaurant from its cozy spot on Beverly to the expansive, re-designed-many-times-over former Citrus/Alex/Meson G/Red Pearl Kitchen building on Melrose near Highland. Lucky for them, the location comes with terrific neighbors.