A Few Recipes From the Chef: Pastry Chef Jan Purdy's Holiday Cookies

When we stopped by to visit Butter Tart bakery--which is set to reopen next month--the other day, pastry chef Jan Purdy was in the kitchen, baking holiday cookies. Purdy has been working with Butter Tart chef-owner Andre Guerrero since their days together at Linq (which is now the home of Christophe Eme's Ortolan), and was at Max in Sherman Oaks before it became Marché, where Purdy is now the pastry chef. Guerrero is either chef, owner, partner, or a combination of some or all of those titles, at Butter Tart, Marché, The Oinkster and BoHo. Purdy is pastry chef at the first three, and helped design BoHo's dessert menu. (Got all that? Chefs are probably very good at musical chairs too.) Guerrero and Purdy, by the way, got involved both personally and professionally after the pastry chef crashed a Christmas party over a decade ago at one of Guerrero's restaurants. Happy holidays.

Purdy brought out a tray of three kinds of holiday cookies: chocolate earthquake cookies, peppermint brownies, and maple shortbread cookies. Okay, maybe only the peppermint brownies, with little candy canes adorning the tops, are full-on Christmas cookies, but it depends on your definition of a holiday cookie. Butter Tart has a vaguely Canadian theme anyway, as its previous owner was Canadian and butter tarts are Canadian in origin. The moose heads on the walls, by the way, have been removed. If you want pretty decorations when Butter Tart reopens, just look at the Syneso espresso machine. For Purdy's three cookie recipes, turn the page.

A. Scattergood

holiday cookies from pastry chef Jan Purdy

Chocolate earthquake cookies
From: Pastry chef Jan Purdy of Marché, The Oinkster and Butter Tart.
Makes: 3 dozen

12 ounces bittersweet chocolate (68% or higher)
6 tablespoons Grand Marnier or Curacao (or rum, brandy or other liqueur)
1 cup finely ground almonds
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons all purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
3 eggs
1/3 cup sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter

to coat the cookies:
3/4 cup sugar
3/4 cup powdered sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Melt the chocolate and butter over a double boiler or in short 30-second intervals in a microwave, stirring often.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the ground almonds, flour and baking powder and set aside. In a standing mixer with a whisk attachment, beat the eggs and sugar at high speed until thick, pale ribbons form, about 5 minutes.

3. Pour the liqueur into the chocolate mixture and stir to combine, then add to the egg mixture. Mix to combine, then add the dry ingredients, whisking briefly until combined. The batter will be thin. Chill the batter until it's solid, about 2-3 hours.

4. Place the remaining sugar and powdered sugar into separate bowls. Using a 1-inch ice cream scoop, scoop the chilled batter into round balls. Roll the balls first in the plain sugar and then in the powdered sugar to coat thoroughly. Place on a baking sheet, leaving a few inches between balls of dough.

5. Bake the cookies for about 18 minutes, or until cracked open on the surface, firm in texture but still soft to the touch in the center.

Maple shortbread cookies
From: Pastry chef Jan Purdy of Marché, The Oinkster and Butter Tart.
Note: Maple extract can be found in the baking aisle of most grocery stores.
Makes: About 2 dozen 3-inch cookies, or about 4 dozen 2-inch cookies

1/3 cup toasted pecans
1 cup unsalted butter
1/2 cup cake flour
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup sugar
2 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon maple extract

1. In a food processor with the blade attachment, chop the nuts and sugar until very fine.

2. Add the butter and mix well. Add the egg yolks, extracts, and salt and mix well, scraping down the sides of the bowl.

3. Add the flours last and pulse into a smooth dough, being careful not to overmix.

4. Pat the dough into a flat disk, wrap in plastic and chill for about 3 hours.

5. Preheat the oven to 350. Roll the dough on a well-floured board to 1/4-inch thickness. Chill for about 10 minutes, until firm.

6. Using a cookie cutter, cut the chilled dough in desired shapes, such as leaves or acorns, and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet.

7. Bake for 10 - 12 minutes, until just golden. Cool completely on a rack.

Maple Icing:
3/4 cup powdered sugar
3/4 teaspoon maple extract
1 or 2 tablespoons of milk

Garnish:
3/4 cup semisweet chocolate chips
1 cup toasted pecans

1. For the icing, blend the sugar, maple extract and milk well, using just enough milk to achieve a spreadable consistency. Reserve.

2. For the garnish, melt the chocolate in a microwave in short 20-second bursts and stir often until smooth. Transfer to a small pastry bag and cut tip very small. Very finely chop the toasted nuts.

3. Spread each cookie with icing so that it is only 1/2 covered and dip the frosted side into the chopped nuts. Use chocolate to trace leaf veins or edging between the side with icing and the rest of the cookie.