Best Bargain Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Costco Kirkland Organic

Categories: Cooking, Shopping

kirkland2.jpg
J. Garbee
Kitchen Window Essential
If you've been following our reports on the imported Italian olive oils that a recent U.C. Davis report claims are falsely advertised as extra virgin (in a nutshell, pretty much all staple supermarket brands, though there is still much debate), you're likely already a few pennies closer to saving $45 for a 500 ml bottle of Laudemio, hands down the best grassy Tuscan olive oil we've tasted lately. Or you could go with a bottle from one of the California producers on the U.C. Davis report, like the $20 McEvoy (375 ml) or the $28 (500 ml) Ascolano. Regardless, the study seems to indicate that if you want to know your dollars are truly going to honest extra virgins, you've got to shell out the big bucks.

But look closely, and you'll see that four of the five brands with all-passing extra virgin grades were from California (notably -- or not -- two of the California olive oil companies on the list, along with the California Olive Oil Council, a trade organization dedicated to promoting locally produced oils, provided financial support for the study). But one Italian import, Kirkland Organic, did quietly infiltrate the ranks of the California extra-virgin elite.

It also happens to be the least expensive olive oil in the study, even less than the generic supermarket versions that supposedly failed miserably. Kirkland retails for about $14 for 1.5 liters. That's 51 ounces of grassy green, first-press olive oil to drizzle with reckless abandon on bread, pizza, salad, whatever your heart desires.

Compared to those $8 to $12, 750 ml (about 25 ounces) flavorless bottles you find at the supermarket, that's a crazy bargain. And this stuff is good. Screw it, you could even sauté with the good stuff it's so cheap. Of course, there is a catch (locavores, you might want to cover your ears).

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Flickr user Judi in Cal
Kirkland is Costco's house brand. Which means you'll have to spring for the $50 annual membership fee simply to buy olive oil. And deal with maddening crowds. And pretend you really didn't just support the Walmart of warehouse stores by buying three of these first-press wonders.

Actually, we're guilty of doing just that. But it's not our fault. It was one of those only-in-L.A. moments, when the party chat turns to foods from a certain region, and there always seems to be someone at the party from that very spot. We were lamenting the price of Tuscan olive oil, the green, grassy, purely romantic stuff, when a lilting Spaniard (fine, close enough) whispered promises of Laudemio-worthy olive oil for pennies in our ear. Mr. Laudemio then told us how he used to stash olive oil in his suitcase on trips to visit his family in Madrid, as the olive oil here in the U.S. was utterly undrinkable. Until he met this particular olive oil, Kirkland Extra Virgin Organic. And did he mention the price?

He did, swearing us to olea europaea secrecy. This oil is big and grassy, first press stuff from Spain and Italy. (Not single vineyard, but does it matter? One giant bottle is the price of four lesser versions.) This oil is divine right after harvest, say in December or January, but even in July when the flavor has mellowed a bit it's good enough to convince us to sell out to the corporate abyss and buy a Costco card simply for olive oil. Good enough to break our promise not to tell you about it.

Mr. Laudemio has nothing to worry about, as it seems we are the only ones at Costco filling our cart with jugs of Kirkland extra-virgin olive oil. Everyone else, it seems, is pissy that the "yellow" oil is so grassy green.

Kirkland Extra Virgin Organic, about $14, 1.5 liters. Note that there is also a generic Kirkland olive oil for a few dollars less (skip it for the extra virgin), as well as a higher-end Tuscan oil sold in smaller quantities that we have yet to try.

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Costco Wholesale

5700 Lindero Canyon Road, Thousand Oaks, CA

Category: General

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15 comments
fmetoff
fmetoff

Organic in a who-knows-what-kind of plastic bottle? If I'm going to pay more for organic then I'll stick with organic in glass thank you.

Mullikencc
Mullikencc

 Also what, you think buying local when possible and/or knowing your farmer is ok to drop just because you feel like it? That's farkin' lazy biznighches.

Mullikencc
Mullikencc

Simmer down folks, costco is not the knight in shining armor you're painting them as, and they can defend themselves, they don't need you whiner's doing it for them!

Marquand_Sarchet
Marquand_Sarchet

I agree with your assessment of Costco's olive oil. I disagree with you view of Costco as "the Walmart of warehouse stores"? While you may not like big box retail for a variety of reasons, Costco has a reputation for selling high quality products that they stand by 100% and they have an industry-wide reputation for paying decent wages and having a good benefit package. Walmart doesn't even come close!

Marquand_Sarchet
Marquand_Sarchet

Woops! I should have read other comments more carefully. The author likened Costco to Walmart because neither buy locally. That much probably is true for both. My comments, however, still stand.

jj
jj

Maybe govt should close down all those sweatshops paying less than $20/hr and all you lib fascists can donate to support all the persons without jobs.

Foryellowrose
Foryellowrose

How sad that an innocent and informative article about Organic Olive Oil sparks a political debate :(  I love Costco and I love Olive Oil... Thanks for the review! It was very helpful.

Jenn Garbee
Jenn Garbee

The reference was to buying locally -- locavores, mentioned directly prior to the Walmart mention -- as opposed to shopping at a mega chain store, which like Walmart, Costco is. Shopping at Costco comes with that "catch" -- the non locavore guilt. I prefer to buy my produce, cheese and olive oil directly from the farmer or artisan producer, such as these CA olive oil producers in the post, to support them whenever possible rather than going through a corporate middleman, and yet we all do both -- as I bought warehouse store olive oil rather than from a CA producer because it was great and also a bargain.

Kate Boyd
Kate Boyd

Sorry Jenn, but what "issues" could you possibly have been referring to if not employment issues? It's way classier to admit you were wrong about CostCo and move on, then make adolescent excuses...

Jenn Garbee
Jenn Garbee

The reference was not in regards to employment issues, as they were not mentioned in the post.

bigyaz
bigyaz

Gratuitous and unfair slam at Costco, calling it "the Walmart of warehouse stores." (Sam's Club is in fact the Walmart of warehouse stores.)

Costco is a responsible corporation, pays its employees well and with good benefits (and gets regularly slammed by Wall Street for doing so), and has excellent customer service (they'll accept returns for virtually anything, no questions asked).

I'm sure you think you're snarky and funny and hip, but you lose credibility talking about things you clearly know little about.

Ohiogirl
Ohiogirl

Costco actually pays living wages, with benefits, to it's employees, so the "walmart of warehouse stores" comparison is incorrect.

I'm happy to shop at Costco. I won't set foot in a walmart or sams club.

Oh and if you are there for their olive oil? Pick up some of their pecorino as well. Yummy!

Jay
Jay

The California Estate Olive Oil from Trader Joe's is especially good, although it's not quite a cheap as Costso's. If you have an objection to supporting the "WalMart of warehouse stores" you could get your EVOO fix at our local Trader Joes, unless you object to supporting the German millionaires to whom Joe sold it a while back. I don't mind supporting either so I'll be buying both to compare. Thanks for the costco tip.

Jenn Garbee
Jenn Garbee

In the case of the olive oil, it seems to be a blend of first-press oils from Italy and Spain -- so perhaps more the red table wine philosophy, only with a blend of really good "leftover" grapes from quality vineyards + a great winemaker.

sal
sal

aren't most Kirkland "branded" stuff, higher named brands? I know Trader Joe's does that with its stuff...like beer.

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