Ask Mr. Gold: In Search of Salteñas, or Discovering Bolivian-Style Empanadas

By Jonathan Gold Wed., Feb. 9 2011 at 11:00 AM

Anne Fishbein

the invisible restaurant critic

Dear Mr. Gold:
Over the holidays, I visited my parents in northern Virginia, where there are numerous places to get delicious Bolivian salteñas. I've lived in Los Angeles for five years and have never seen or heard mention of these juicy, flavorful empanadas. Donde estan las salteñas?
--Franco C.

Dear Mr. C:
Salteñas? Why not? Bolivian cooking has its charms, including spicy stews enriched with the spongy, freeze-dried potatoes called chuños; delicious guinea-pig dishes; and cinnamon-scented cheese tamales called humintas, but the salteña, a triangular baked pastry stuffed with olives and seasoned ground meat, is probably the national dish, the one Bolivian foodstuff that you are likely to see on a menu in Argentina or Peru. (I've never quite made it to Bolivia, but I have enjoyed salteñas -- and the rest -- in Puno, which lies just on the other side of Lake Titicaca from Bolivia on the Andean altiplano.) Salteñas have have never been common in Los Angeles -- for years, the only place you could find them was at a North Hollywood tango bar -- but Beba's is a decent Bolivian restaurant, and the salteñas are quite good.

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Ask Mr. Gold, Beba's, Jonathan Gold, salteñas

We Recommend

Javi

To all the Bolivian comunity out there; now you can inquire about how to order Saltenias Bolivianas 100%, made in Bolivia.( de Pollo).Please write to: salteniasdeli@hotmail.com. All orders will be shipped out of Fla USA.Thanks Mr Gold

Bestsy Luu

You are in luck, my family is the owner of the Bolivian Restaurant chain Bebas Restaurant. In Anaheim, CA 1909 East Lincoln Ave, Anaheim, CA 92805 714-535-9715 is owned by the Son of Senora Bebas, which the restaurant is named for. Another location, actually run by the Bolivian lady herself, Senora Bebas, lies in a small tucked in street corner of Van Nuys. 6024 Hazeltine Ave, Van Nuys, CA, 91401 818-786-1511. Small, family owned, with original bolivian dishes. I recommend the Anaheim location, we also make monthly trips to San Diego to deliever to our loyal and loving customers. And might i mention, not only are the Saltenas availiable in chicken, beef, veggie (for non meat lovers) but we also supply Bolivian products (humitas, chunos, mocochinchi, chica morada) and drinks imported from Bolivia! (pacena beers) Buy them cooked, buy them frozen, eat them there, one is never enough! Stay for a while and feast on the large plates of Silpancho, Falso conejo, Milanesa, Sopa de mani, Lechon, and much much more! Are you hungry yet? lol

TallCowboy

So when is Bebas in Van Nuys going to start serving Paceña????? Sheesh...we go there often, but have not been for a month or two now....they always say "we will get the license soon" but never seem to get it. We have to get Paceña from a Argentine market on Victory, and it is NOT the same as that in Bolivia. Dammit. I want a big bottle like we buy in Bolivia, not some small 12-oz bottle of imitation Paceña like we get at the Argentino market. Also, some good Singani would be much appreciated! Also have to get our Singani from the Argentinian market...off the secret back shelf, but it is made in Peru....so we would MUCH prefer some Bolivian Singani.

Carajo

Saltenas come in either Chicken or Beef. There are many varieties of this beloved food but the best are found in the SFV area. Your best bet is to ask around and try and find people who prepare them and sell them like many people do with Tamales. My mother buys them from a woman at Church. Always best fresh of course. I love to eat them after they have sat out for a few minutes and are cool enough to eat on the go.

Also, always take your first bite at the top end of it (holding it long ways). They can be pretty juicy and don't want to make the mistake many people do when biting into them.

Enjoy!

saikoxpooh

I heart Bebas. You can also buy them frozen and pop them in the overn whenever you have a craving at 400 degrees for around 15 min. I have a box in my fridge right now! This Korean Bolivian can never get enough!

gustavoarellano

Mr. Gold: OC is the capital of salteñas in Southern California--in addition to Beba's Anaheim location, we have Rollie's Bakery and La Rancherita, Bolivian restaurants masquerading as Mexican panaderias. But you knew this already...