The FDA Weighs Tightening Regulations on Raw Milk Cheese

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Adam Kuban/Flickr
A Tomme de Savoie

Somewhere in a smoke-filled boardroom, the Whey and Curds Committee is hunched over a heap of runny rounds with washed rinds, trying to figure out whether or not the Federal government ought to clamp down on cheeses made with unpasteurized milk. A recent New York Times story suggests that, in the wake of 2010's glut of recalls and multi-state E. coli outbreaks, the FDA will unveil new proposals for regulating raw milk cheeses. The current 60-day aging period -- already a headache for some cheese-makers -- may be extended an extra month. Or potentially, raw milk cheeses could be banned outright.

Given that pasteurized milk causes its share of food safety calamities, we're coming down hard on the side of the raw milk wranglers, reckoning that a little rennet roulette is worth the pleasure we get from a wedge of Tomme de Savoie. While it's a major issue, particularly for small-batch producers, and the emerging scientific findings are obviously worth digesting, we can't help but get a chuckle out of the article's decidedly prosaic take on the magical properties of raw milk:

"Cheesemakers say pasteurizing milk destroys enzymes and good bacteria that add flavor to cheese. Raw milk cheese, they say, has flavors that derive from the animals and the pastureland that produced the milk, much as wine is said to draw unique flavors from individual vineyards."

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2 comments
Kv_guzman
Kv_guzman

great why don't we just pull all the good cheese from the shelves and replace them with American cheese slices while we're at it.

Shouldn't the focus be on the SOURCE of these food contamination outbreaks and not how to ruin our food to better accomodate the frequency with which they occur????

Aed939
Aed939

It would be an improvement to move to a sliding scale ranging from 0 to 90 days that took into account salinity, moisture content, acidity, frequency of testing, and possibly other factors. We can be a little more sophisticated. It is important that such a formula is applied universally to all cheese qualities and varieties so as not to limit creativity and to maximize fairness. Don't try to reinvent the wheel--look to Quebec and Europe for guidance.

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