Rick Bayless Taco-Blocks Local Blogger

Tijuana Food Marathon: Bill Esparza Samples Ceviche

[Correction: In an earlier version of this post, we incorrectly stated that Esparza referred to Rick Bayless as the "Kenny G of Mexican cooking." In fact, Esparza compared him to Michael Bolton.]

Chicago-based chef Rick Bayless, who graciously introduced Los Angeles to authentic music right after introducing us to authentic Mexican cuisine, doesn't want a certain Los Angeles blogger to know what he's doing.

The blogger in question is Bill Esparza of Street Gourmet LA, who savaged Red O in his review and called Bayless the Michael Bolton of Mexican cooking for his comments about bringing the "true flavors of Mexico" to Los Angeles.

OC Weekly reports that the latest storm in this teapot tempest is that Bayless recently blocked Esparza from following his Twitter feed (@rick_bayless) (though Esparza can still see them on the Twitter site). Esparza has a theory about that.

Rick-Bayless_135.jpg
Rick Bayless
"I think it has everything to do with the fact that [Bayless] is in Baja right now," says Esparza, who has been visiting the region for the last decade and generally travels there one to two times per month. "He's basically going to all the places I've written on my blog. Maybe they didn't want to run into me or maybe they want to hide that they're using info from my blog. They had to have used some of the info from my blog."

In 2009, Esparza worked with COTUCO (the visitors and convention bureau of Tijuana) to bring L.A. bloggers and chefs down to Baja for a multi-day eating tour. "I told the guy form Cotuco that if we do this and all those great blog posts come out, I guarantee you big people like Andrew Zimmern, Anthony Bourdain and Rick Bayless will come down here. Now [with Bayless], two out of three have come."

Is it an honor for a Esparza, a musician by trade and a gourmand by inclination, to be taco-blocked out by the host of "Mexico: One Plate at a Time," arguably the biggest name in Mexican cooking in the United States?

"Yeah, it's curious. My problem with him has been his insult to the Mexican community and to the Mexican chefs of Los Angeles. I think it was really careless to come in and say he was bringing Mexican cuisine to L.A. Not only is it mean, it's arrogant and inaccurate. If he took care of that, I'd have no problem with him," Esparza says. "I still think Red O is a terrible restaurant."

[Jonathan Gold gave it a mixed review: "Let's say that it resembles high-end Mexico City restaurant food more than Esparza will ever let on, but with a lot less excitement than you'll find in the best local kitchens."]

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Red O

8155 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, CA

Category: Restaurant

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10 comments
California Rolls Anyone?
California Rolls Anyone?

It's easy to mistake what he said as an insult. It's true that California takes something and creates its own twist. Look at Pizza for example. There are probably 20 varieties of pizza pies that came from California. That is not saying they are bad its just saying that an Italian baker isn't making that in her wood fired hearth. The same goes for almost an cuisine of Asia. California Rolls anyone? Rick Bayless and his wife lived in Mexico for many years studying their food and culture. I have eaten at a few of his establishments in Chicago and I couldn't have been more satisfied. If anything he has saved us from idea that Tex-Mex is real Mexican food.

Val
Val

I doubt that Rick Bayless' blocking of Bill Esparza has anything to do with said Mr. Bayless not wanting Mr. Esparza to know what he's doing - what Rick Bayless is doing is hardly a matter of national security. I'm guessing that Bayless figures that if someone takes a dump on your front porch, you're not likely to invite him into your home. Seems like somebody really needs to let this thing go - this adolescent grudge is tiresome, and certainly not newsworthy.

Steve
Steve

Who anointed the self-anointed StreetGourmet of Los Angeles as the leader of the vanguard?

Garrett Snyder
Garrett Snyder

Read the blog and you'll see why. The sheer encyclopedic amount of information the man shares on Mexican cuisine should make Bayless blush, if not cower in humility. I don't think anyone is discrediting Bayless' past culinary achievements in Chicago, but for him to claim himself as an ambassador of Mexican cuisine/culture in Los Angeles is pretty ridiculous when you compare his experience against someone like Bill.

PS- To be fair, Micheal MacDonald isn't that bad, I think his version of "Ain't no mountain high" just left a bad taste. Haha.

Dave Lieberman
Dave Lieberman

I believe the Spanish term is "bloqueando su chorizo".

Garrett Snyder
Garrett Snyder

I believe Billl referred to Rick Bayless as the "Michael Bolton" of Mexican cuisine, the "Dock of the Bay" version specifically. Though Kenny G, or even Micheal MacDonald, make for an apt comparison as well.

streetgourmetla
streetgourmetla

I just remember Michael Bolton on a talk show with an angry black audience for his covers of Sitting on the Dock of the Bay, and other sacred classics. He's a little bit of Michael Bolton with some Ron Popeil thrown in. Kenny G works,too. Michael McDonald have earned his wings, I wouldn't include him, come on, Keep Forgettin' is pretty bad ass,so is Minute by Minute.

Latonya "Keed" Bunn
Latonya "Keed" Bunn

"He's a little bit of Michael Bolton with some Ron Popeil thrown in."

Was Michael Bolton a doctoral candidate in anthropological linguistics and a serious academic student of Mexican history and culture (as Bayless is)? Did Ron Popeil live in Mexico for six years (like Bayless) and not just jabber about a Latino heritage? Has Bill Esparza run some of the best and most-successful Mexican restaurants in the country (which I've been going to for more than 20 years)?

I have no idea why Bayless made that ridiculously uninformed statement about Los Angalus Mexican food or lent his fame to the Red O, but, given his contributions to great eating in this country, I'm willing to forgive and forget, just as I've tried to be understanding towards streetgourmetla, J. Gold, etc. for their numerous and continuing mistakes over the years (particularly the boring arrogance that Esparza has been called on many times).

streetgourmetla
streetgourmetla

La Tonya-Everyone who has a college degree is only qualified to a title, BA,MA,PHD, many of us have gone to college.

You do not have to be an identical twin to Rick Bayless to criticize what he cooks or has to say. There are no food critics/bloggers.whatever, that fit this bill, it's a useless "Oh ya well,can you......" I don't have to be a pop diva to know Britney Spears can't sing, or that Cristina Aguilera oversang the National Anthem to cover up for her messing up the lyrics. I don't have to be governor of California to have been upset with Arnold.

I could go on and on about my experiences in Mexico, but let me tell you this: Rick is in Baja as we speak, visiting the restaurants and stands I've been blogging about, and posting about back on Chowhound. You'd better believe my reports have been a source for their show either directly or indirectly, as most blogs and stories about the new Baja and street food scene are, including Travel and Leisure, which had the courtesy to name their source,my reports.But, take a look around my blog,I stand behind the content, and you can see for yourself. You don't think the "One Plate" research team read that article? http://www.travelandleisure.co...

I write about the real chefs, stands, fondas, stalls, artisans, specialists in Mexico and Los Angeles. I've been to Rick's restaurants in Chicago, and Red O, here in LA: the restaurants in Chicago are a lot of money for a good meal, but not great Mexican food,nor does he have the hand I've experienced in Mexico, it's his own thing, but more a reflection of his American rearing. Red O is a bad restaurant. Why?I don't know why he doesn't have it together, and I don't care. Do you honestly think going to a university to study linguistics can make you a barbacoa master, a tamalera, a seasoned taquero? It appears you also fail to understand what authentic Mexican cuisine is about. Yes Rick is a success, as is Chipotle, and Taco Bell. I guess we can't criticize Glen Bell, because we've never owned a successful fast food chain.

You're willing to forgive Rick, but have you spoken with the chefs and cooks hear in Los Angeles that have brought generations of culinary heritage to Los Angeles? They are offended, the many I've spoken to, and if it's just one, that's enough. He didn't bring it, he doesn't deliver, and he should be more considerate given his stature. Rick has created nothing, he replates dishes he finds in Mexico and markets like mad, to which we can also credit Rubio. He should consider this.

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