Langer's vs. Oinkster: 30 Sandwiches in 30 Days (Day 12)

By Elina Shatkin Tue., Nov. 22 2011 at 4:24 PM

The #19 pastrami sandwich at Langer's.

If yesterday's 30 Days post, pitting Johnnie's Pastrami against The Hat, was the battle of the lowbrow fast-food joints, today it's all about highbrow pastrami.

Want to look like a dyed-in-the-wool Angeleno? Next time you visit Langer's, sit down and order the #19 without glancing at the menu. Better yet, don't order the #19. Order any other sandwich at Langer's as long as it features pastrami -- and don't look at the menu.

The #19 is the most popular sandwich at Langer's Delicatessen: pastrami on rye with coleslaw, Russian dressing and a slice of Swiss cheese. The coleslaw adds a solid crunch, the cheese provides more texture than it does flavor and the creamy, pale orange Russian dressing adds a sweet, pickly note. Langer's pastrami, however, needs no accoutrements.

It is sliced thickly, more like a slab of brisket than the thin, curling pastrami at most sandwich shops, whether they're of the artisanal or drive-through variety. The meat itself is tender and warm, modestly seasoned but intensely meaty, peppery without the overpowering sense of spice. It comes on rye bread so crusty, it makes Andy Rooney look like Pollyanna. Yet the bread, in a true miracle of nature's duality, is somehow exceptionally soft and chewy. All the numbered sandwiches at Langer's are gussied up with Russian dressing and other adornments: cheese (#10), coleslaw (#1), chopped liver (#6). If you want it plain, you'll have to ask for the homely, unnumbered "hot pastrami." That's okay. Bread and pastrami, that's all you need at Langer's. And maybe a plate of potato panckes, which aren't cheap ($11.95) but come five to a serving.

Guzzle & Nosh

The pastrami sandwich at Oinkster.

At Oinkster, they put a lot of time and effort into their meat. It's also sliced thicker than typical pastrami, though it's not quite as thick as Langer's. The flavor is strong and very peppery. The meat is mostly tender though definitely tougher and more chewy than at Langer's, and it's served on a standard French roll.

Oinkster is known for their pastrami, but the better sandwich here is the BBQ pulled pork. It's smokey shredded pork under a bed of pickled red cabbage with a vinegary sauce that should be poured liberally over the meat. Not that the pork needs any moistening, but the tart zing of the sauce perfectly offsets the meat.

As for pastrami, there can only be one winner. It's Langer's. Still #1.

Previously...

Day 11: The Hat vs. Johnnie's Pastrami

Day 10: Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich at Pann's

Day 9: Po'boys at The Gumbo Pot

Day 8: Waffle Sandwich at Shaky Alibi

Day 7: Kobb Salad Sandwich at Kokomo

Day 6: Sotto's Porcetto Sandwich

Day 5: Attari Sandwich Shop

Day 4: Godmother Sub at Bay Cities Deli

Day 3: Shaved Turkey Sandwich at True Food Kitchen

Day 2: Porchetta at Mozza2Go

Day 1: Cole's vs. Philippe's

Elina Shatkin is a staff writer at LA Weekly. Follow her at @elinashatkin or contact her at eshatkin@laweekly.com.

Location Info

Venue

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Langer's Delicatessen-Restaurant

704 S. Alvarado St., Los Angeles, CA

Category: Restaurant

6 user reviews	Write A Review
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Tags:

30 Sandwiches in 30 Days, Elina Shatkin, Langer's, Oinkster, Pastrami, Sandwich

We Recommend

Carl Showalter

Oinkster? LOL. Their famed pulled pork sandwich is dry and tasteless. I don't understand why you guys at LA Weekly keep raving over Oinkster.

Amanda Levin

Ugh, I continue to balk at the poor reviews of choice sandwich locations in Los Angeles in this series. If you're going to review french dips in the first article, you simply cannot leave out Langer's Pastrami Dip. Absolutely the best, trumping Philippe's and Cole's by far. Cole's is a joke in the sandwich dept. ever since it was bought out by 213 Ventures and gentrified for profit, I just go for drinks. Still love Philippe's for its history and flavor, but it cannot compete with the perfect Langer's Pastrami Dip. Indeed the au jus at Cole's is nearly water, but blasphemy to speak of eating a dipped sandwich withut au jus! To understand au jus, one must try it at Langer's. It is dark, murky, salty perfection and takes the substance to a new level. Still, I'd rather eat a dip with watery au jus than none at all, duh.

The Win

Langer's hot pastrami (hand-cut, mustard ONLY) is and has been the standard, bar none. I agree that the Oinkster version, while definite quality, is a few notches below. However, my Oinkster favorite is the roast chicken salad sandwich which trumps even its great pulled pork.

JustAPlayer

Perhaps the writer could go north of the LAW's HQ on the 405 to Brent's in Northridge. That's right in the San Fernando Valley which the LAW seems to think is another state or even country. Brent's pastrami is a better (by a bit) than Langers and is served on fresh baked, usually still hot, rye bread.

Just an idea.

Eric Gladstone

I prefer the #1 at Langer's--why go with the obvious? But you neglected to mention their bread comes from Bea's in Tarzana (let's give credit). At any rate, a comparison between Langers and Oinkster is unfair, they're so stylistically different, and intentionally so. Now, Johnnie's by comparison is an ungodly salt bomb...

Eric Gladstone

Rex King

Oinkster vs. Langer's? What's next -- Yugo vs. BMW?

The only problems with Langer's are the hours and the fact that they serve their pastrami in any form other than on rye bread with, perhaps, a dab of mustard. Throwing crap all over a sandwich is for people who don't like pastrami (similar problem with hamburgers in so many places here) or sandwiches made with lousy pastrami (see the Hat, Johnnie's, etc.). Contrary to the kids at clownhound [dot] com who've never been further east than Riverside, there are many top-quality pastrami sandwiches in this country, but Langer's is right there with the best.