Your Counter Intelligence Preview: In Which Mr. Gold Considers a Traditional Beefsteak at Vibiana's
This week Jonathan Gold visits an old-style beefsteak dinner, in the manner of the regional gluttonous feasts (platters of beef, absence of vegetables, rivers of beer) of early last century New York.
Anne Fishbein Beefsteak 2011 at Vibiana
Was this a New York beefsteak circa 1939? It was not. Vibiana is a soaring, bleached-white, deconsecrated cathedral, not a dank basement, and the 350 revelers, most of them superbly dressed, did not look as if they intended to spoil their clothing with well-aged grease. ("I do know most of the people here,'' a friend said. "Mostly from The Simpsons or from Harvard.'')