10 Best Sandwiches in Los Angeles
1. Toron at Baco Mercat
Of all the gentrified, non-deli sandwiches in this town, Josef Centeno's bäcos are the most original and most compelling. A sandwich that Centeno has offered, in various iterations, at many of his restaurants, bäcos are wrapped in soft, pita-like bread and filled with intriguing flavor combinations. A few bäcos appear at dinner, but they drive the menu at lunch. The Original, with crunchy yet tender chunks of fried pork belly and a garlicky, almondy salbitxada (a Catalan sauce), is the restaurant's namesake. But the best bäco is the Toron. A generous scoop of oxtail hash rests on a pancake of shredded potato that would make bubbe proud, topped with melted cheddar and a mess of tartly dressed sprouts and greens. It's the sandwich ne plus ultra: meaty, bready, melty and brilliant.
Baco Mercat: 408 S. Main St., L.A.
Runners-up: Cheesesteak at Boos Philly Cheesesteak, The Farmer at Daily Dose, Pastrami at Mezze, The Godfather at ink.sack, Tongue at Attari Sandwich Shop, Bacalao at Cook's Tortas, Fried Chicken Sandwich at Son of a Gun, anything with bacon at Salt's Cure.
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