Your Counter Intelligence Preview: In Which Mr. Gold Considers Baco Mercat
This week, Jonathan Gold visits Josef Centeno's Bäco Mercat, the chef's recently opened bäco palace in downtown L.A. 
Anne Fishbein Josef Centeno; his English Breakfast
The ideal customer would be someone who knows what salbitxada is, but also doesn't get upset if she accidentally splashes a little on her shirt. If Bäco Mercat were any more of the moment, it would be a Pinterest page devoted to Tumblrs of itself, so that restaurant and metarestaurant could devour one another like Jung's famous snake swallowing its own tail.
Read the complete story in Gold's Counter Intelligence, "Taco on Steroids," and check out Anne Fishbein's photo gallery. Then maybe get in your car.
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Baco Mercat
408 S. Main St., Los Angeles, CA
Category: Restaurant
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