Your Counter Intelligence Preview: In Which Mr. Gold Considers Baco Mercat
This week, Jonathan Gold visits Josef Centeno's Bäco Mercat, the chef's recently opened bäco palace in downtown L.A.
Anne Fishbein Josef Centeno; his English Breakfast
The ideal customer would be someone who knows what salbitxada is, but also doesn't get upset if she accidentally splashes a little on her shirt. If Bäco Mercat were any more of the moment, it would be a Pinterest page devoted to Tumblrs of itself, so that restaurant and metarestaurant could devour one another like Jung's famous snake swallowing its own tail.