Song of the South: Animal, Son of a Gun, and the Real Takeaway of the Southern Food Trend
This week, in place of a review, we're running an essay about the Southern food trend in L.A. and beyond.
Anne Fishbein Chicken Fried Sweetbreads at Animal
A few weeks ago, the Southern Foodways Alliance held its annual fall Symposium, and the chefs asked to cook the dinner that kicked off the event were L.A.'s own Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo. What's Southern about the chefs behind Animal and Son of a Gun? More than you might imagine.
In looking at the food of Animal and Son of a Gun, as well as some of Los Angeles' other purveyors of Southern food, I try to dissect what it is about Southern food that's so appealing, why Southern food and the South in general are so misunderstood, and the real takeaway of the Southern food trend.
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