9 Great Latkes in Los Angeles
Hanukkah at Suzanne Tracht's Jar most certainly means latkes. As she does every season, Tracht pays homage to her father Sam by serving his recipe throughout the holiday. Each serving is $10 and comes with Tracht's preferred condiments of clove and ginger-spiked savory applesauce and crème fraîche. Tracht has also been known to dabble in parsnip variations. 8225 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 655-6566.
3. Got Kosher?:
It's a given that plenty of restaurants along Pico's Kosher Corridor are working their way through a startling number of potatoes this month. Got Kosher? is no exception, and as the special Lotsa Latke logo indicates, the restaurant is adding an extra touch of local pride with the tip of its (baseball) cap. Anyway, if it's classic latkes you want, it's classic you'll get. But since Alain Cohen excels at upending expectations of kosher cooking, there's a roster of fried vegetable pancakes that involves just about every hearty solid root vegetable you've seen at the market within the last month or so, along with interpretations involving cauliflower, zucchini, and lighter green touches. Nab the Twelve for Twelve special on 12/12/12 -- that's tomorrow, people -- and get a dozen potato for $12 instead of the usual $2 each. 8914 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A.; (310) 858-1920.
2. The Gorbals:
Ilan Hall's Scottish-Jewish mashup at the Gorbals isn't here to please the gastronomically or culturally doctrinaire. Quite the contrary. Which isn't to suggest its signature bacon-wrapped matzo balls exclusively exist to start heated arguments either. But Hall's wispy latkes -- a menu staple -- served with smoked applesauce? Most will agree that those are downright dynamite, anytime of year, shared with any company. 501 S. Spring St., Downtown; (213) 488-3408.
At the recent "Who's Your Bubbie?" panel discussion held at the Skirball Cultural Center to launch the Beyond Bubbie website, Akasha Richmond shared with the audience how she ensures her best latke maker's vacation plans don't ever coincide with Hanukkah. That's because Richmond rolls out a Vodka and Latkes tradition that her customers have come to expect every year, featuring seasonal cocktails with the aforementioned rhyming spirit. Want chopped liver, pickled herring, braised brisket, and apple fritters to go with those Yukon Gold latkes, overseen by head prep cook and chief latke master Jose Hernandez? Akasha's got you covered. Brussels sprouts have found their way into potato pancakes this year, too. 9543 Culver Blvd., Culver City; (310) 845-1700.
Want more Squid Ink? Follow us on Twitter or like us on Facebook. Follow the author on Twitter at @TasterTotsLA.
321 N. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles, CA