10 Best Dishes in L.A. for Homesick New Yorkers

02-17-13-678597-Agnolotti-Superba-Snack-Bar.jpg
Anne Fishbein
The Agnolotti at Superba Snack Bar
It's easy to start nodding off when people drag out the old "New York vs. Los Angeles" debate; it's a tired one, and largely a comparison of Big Apples to orange groves, anyway. But after Bon Appetit listed its 20 most important restaurants in America and New York outshone L.A. by a factor of six, it got us wondering: Where do East Coast transplants like to eat when they're missing New York?

Die-hard New Yorkers may grumble forever at the idea of re-creating that perfect slice of pizza or ordering up a true Brooklyn bagel on the West Coast, but Los Angeles is doing a lot of great things with the foods that Gothamites have traditionally considered to be sacred territory. Here are 10 dishes that New Yorkers love to lament the loss of after moving to the City of Angels, from pizza to bagels to cheesecake, that Los Angeles is making fantastically well -- and often without regard to the way it's "supposed" to be made back east.

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Flickr/stuart_spivack
Black & White Cookie
10. Black-and-white cookies at Bea's Bakery:
Bea's Bakery in Tarzana is the unquestioned L.A. queen of the Brooklyn favorite black & white cookie. Chewier than most, with a none-too-dry vanilla sponge cake base and rich chocolate half, this is the deli-style dessert that New Yorkers had largely given up on finding inside our city limits. Sure, the subway doesn't exactly offer stops in Tarzana, but any intrepid New Yorker can find his way down the 101 for this classic city delight if he's so inclined. Apparently Henry Winkler (aka the Fonz) is a big Bea's fan, and he's a born-and-bred Manhattanite! 18450 Clark St., Tarzana; 818-344-0100.

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Flickr/stuart_spivack
Chowder at Gladstone's
9. Clam chowder at Gladstone's:
While there is an abundance of fresh seafood to be found on both coasts, NY-ophiles tend to wax nostalgic about the rustic clam chowders of their youth. From thick, creamy Cape Cod versions to the thin, tomato-centric Manhattan iteration, there seems to be no solving an East Coaster's appetite for chowdah. Transplants may initially bristle at the deconstructed Providence version, porkified with lardo and Nueske's smoked bacon, but there's no denying the truth: It's a masterpiece. The SBE-backed Gladstone's in Malibu may not conjure images of the clam shacks around Rhode Island, but it offers a fine, tomato-based Manhattan chowder that teems with cod and salmon chunks. At least New Yorkers can find solace in the simple Friday chowder specials at Philippe's, while simultaneously enjoying one of L.A.'s most iconic sandwiches. Gladstone's, 17300 Pacific Coast Hwy., Los Angeles; 310-454-3474.

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Flickr/skampy
Eggs Benedict at M Cafe de Chaya
8. Eggs Benedict M Café de Chaya:
New Yorkers sure are partial to their Eggs Benedict, the Hollandaise-laced brunch dish that's so specific you have to capitalize the name. While presumed to have begun at the turn of the 20th century at the Waldorf Hotel, the Benedict has gone global as a symbol of New York hangover ingenuity. But make no mistake, Los Angeles is a bruncher's paradise. At any of the M Café de Chaya locations, you can order up a vegan version with steamed kale, tempeh bacon and a soy Hollandaise sauce that will make you forget all of those brunches gone by in Greenwich Village. The Mexican-inspired Mole Benedict at Larchmont Bungalow may be even better, topped with roasted pepper, pico de gallo, chipotle aioli and some mole-chicken sausage. 7119 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; 323-525-0588.


Location Info

Venue

Map

Bea's Bakery

18450 Clark St., Tarzana, CA

Category: Restaurant

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Providence

5955 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, CA

Category: Restaurant

Gladstone's Malibu

17300 Pacific Coast Highway, Los Angeles, CA

Category: Music

Philippe the Original

1001 N. Alameda St., Los Angeles, CA

Category: Restaurant

M Cafe De Chaya

7119 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, CA

Category: Restaurant

Larchmont Bungalow

107 N. Larchmont Blvd., Los Angeles, CA

Category: Restaurant

Superba Snack Bar

533 Rose Ave., Los Angeles, CA

Category: Restaurant

BreadBar

10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, CA

Category: Restaurant

Silo Slider & Vodka Bar

221 W. 7th St., Los Angeles, CA

Category: Music

Sweet Lady Jane Bakery

8360 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, CA

Category: Restaurant

Storefront - CLOSED

4624 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, CA

Category: Restaurant

Western Bagel

12930 Ventura Blvd., Los Angeles, CA

Category: Restaurant

Dog Haus

105 N. Hill Ave., Pasadena, CA

Category: Restaurant

Let's Be Frank

Helms Ave., between Venice and Washington boulevards, Los Angeles, CA

Category: Restaurant

Pizzeria Mozza

641 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles, CA

Category: Restaurant

Mr. Pizza

3881 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA

Category: Restaurant

My Voice Nation Help
18 comments
smun11
smun11

Bottega Louie has the closest pizza to Lombardi's in NYC I have found.  It reminds me of Balthazar meets Dean & Delucca

inspiredphoenixrisin
inspiredphoenixrisin

Pizza: Frankie and Johnnie's on Sunset is the BEST pizza in LA and it is the Closest (in my opinion) to NY pizza. Mind you, I am saying NY Pizza and not NYC pizza as they are totally different. F&J reminds me of great pizza from Western NY. 

Village Pizzeria in Larchmont is also awesome! Those are the only 2 places I have discovered for Really Awesome Pizza, that is close to what I grew up on. Again, my opinion for a pizza close to Western/Central NY pizza and not NYC. 

Now, let's talk about Wings! The ONLY place in LA I have found Real Wings even close to TRUE Buffalo Wings is; Big Wang's in Hollywood! It is amazing. I can't remember if BW has Labatt's products, but if they do, it would make for a WNY or CNY's night. 

There are also a few other places in LA that aren't mentioned...but you can't expect to get it all in one article, and each has their own opinion and tastes. :)

TODOSSOMOSPUTOS
TODOSSOMOSPUTOS

How surprising that New York-based Bon Appetit, owned by New York-based Conde Nast, would list 8 New York restaurants (including 2 with outposts in NY) in their Top 20 in the USA. 

"It's easy to start nodding off when people drag out the old "New York vs. Los Angeles" debate; it's a tired one..."  Indeed.

harbinger269
harbinger269 like.author.displayName 1 Like

Um, are you actually from NY? So far the consensus is pretty clear that the places you've listed are nowhere near that of NY. In fact, there is an actual "Brooklyn Bagel Bakery" that completely blows away Western Bagel. Although I agree no pizzeria here will ever be the real mccoy, but there are a few places that hits pretty close to the mark. Bricola in SM, Piece O Pizza on Venice are good 'mom n pop' type places. And sometimes you have to search for these little corner places. Seriously? Mr. Pizza? One can only guess you're promoting for these local eateries because none are close to that to be considered homesick foods.

kcon9
kcon9 like.author.displayName 1 Like

Superba was disappointing and terrible. As an Italian and former New Yorker, I was quite alarmed to see that recommendation! Also, clam chowder isn't a New York dish, it's mostly known for its New England roots. Come on, guys! Find someone who knows New York and its culinary masterpieces!

kcon9
kcon9

Superba was disappointing and terrible. As an Italian and a New York transplant, seeing that recommendation made me sad!

Tonsils
Tonsils

I think Mr. Pizza is the greatest choice you could have made. It's anti-pizza. It's super weird and doesn't even really pretend to *be* pizza. So no NY'er can complain it's not like home. OF COURSE it isn't, like home. Bravo. 

jaas
jaas like.author.displayName 1 Like

None of the delis listed are kosher.  Jewish does not equal kosher.

FarleyElliott
FarleyElliott

@Bigmouth This list is definitely a bit tongue-in-cheek. These are all NY-centric dishes that Los Angeles happens to also excel at, although not in the way many Gothomites may think. 

Bigmouth
Bigmouth like.author.displayName 1 Like

I don't mean to be rude, but I have to ask. Was this list written by, or in consultation with, someone actually from New York? Because I can tell you, as an ex-New Yorker, I do not miss black-and-white cookies, clam chowder, eggs benedict, sliders, or cheesecake.

Worse, none of the suggestions for things I actually do crave  is on target. Mr. Pizza... WTF? How about Joe's, Mulberry Street, or Vito's? What we're missing is coal-fired pizza, but that will hopefully be changing with the arrival of Grimaldi's in El Segundo. Also, while I've never been to Western Bagel, your description makes me skeptical. The whole problem with bagels on the West Coast is they are "softer" and "less dense" than what you get in NYC.

Perhaps I've missed the point, and this was tongue in cheek. But I fear none of the places mentioned will remotely satisfy homesick New Yorkers.

andreihp42
andreihp42 topcommenter

your article is misleading. no new yorker craves the pizza you are advocating. 

therefore- #fail

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