D. Solomon

Arepa with pepper, duck bacon and mozzarella

​In December, Bolívar Café and Gallery celebrated two achievements. First, its 10th anniversary as a small, bustling Santa Monica café. Second, the arrival of a custom-made arepa machine, and the reappearance -- after a year hiatus -- of this Venezuelan dish. "On the first day we made over 200," says owner José Carvajal. "And we haven't stopped since."

Yes, the arepas -- cornmeal patties split lengthwise and filled like a sandwich with ingredients such as panela cheese, chicken and avocado -- are that popular. At least, among locals in the know. Bolívar doesn't advertise. And not a single sign marks its unassuming white façade on Ocean Park Blvd. So it's noteworthy that Bolívar has persisted for 10 years, even enduring the rough economic climate. It also survived a recent legal dispute between Carvajal and his then-co-owner.

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D. Gonzalez

Not your usual plate of Porto's: Dulce de Leche Kisses

​There are always certain points a holiday parties. The point at which someone has had just enough to drink to say something catty about the person who just happens to be standing right behind them. Then there is the point of the party when someone walks in carrying those distinctive yellow boxes. The sign that the Porto's has arrived.

Is it a box of potato balls? Those guava filled refugiados? Maybe cheese rolls? When we are bearer of those coveted bakery boxes, while we make sure to bring those pastries that Porto's Bakery is most well known for, we also include our own favorite: the dulce de leche Kiss cookie.

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G. Snyder

The Pupusa-Papaya Connection

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The origins of this week's food mash-up trace back to a particularly reflective pupusa run a few weeks ago. To be clear, we love the pupusa in all it's crisp-edged, cheese-oozing glory, and given the ubiquitous status of the Salvadorian staple these days it's clear that its a populist favorite to boot (pupuseria may soon eclipse taqueria as the city's dominant -eria). Few things bring us more joy than a triple stack of pupusas piled high like Sunday morning pancakes.

One small qualm, or more accurately, one aspect with potential for improvement, is the toppings that usually accompany pupusas. There is curtido, the roughly chopped vinegared coleslaw that resembles something a hapless Latin line cook might whip up if pressed for a last-minute sauerkraut. Then there is the mild, watery salsa roja, a version far divorced from the fiery chile-spiked version commonplace in Mexico. Unlike their northern neighbors, many Central Americans aren't as keen on spice. Salvadoran salsa roja, even in its purest form, tastes remarkably similar to warmed over Campbell's seasoned with a handful of oregano.

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