Wine Cellar: Master Sommelier Richard Betts on "Feral" Chardonnay

Categories: Wine, Winemakers

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Flickr user prayitno
A Feral Chardonnay?
We've long been keen on winemaker Greg La Follette's Pinot Noir style, his bagpipe back story and the Friday night Bingo shirts he sports at wine tasting events. He's also weathered the wine business long enough that he doesn't worry about telling the whole wine truth, and nothing but the truth (so help his marketing department). Consider the label description on a recently released 2010 Sangiacomo Vineyard Chardonnay from his namesake winery: "Intriguing, almost feral aromas over bright, crisp structure."

"Wild, animal, funky, bloody, the smell of the bear cage at the zoo -- all of it," said Richard Betts when we asked him to clarify the definition (Betts is one of 120 or so Master Sommeliers in the U.S.; he also happens to be a winemaker and distiller). "Feral implies the presence of things that some technocrat winemakers call faults but romantic wine lovers often find full of allure," he continues. "I'll be amongst the lovers." [Note: Betts is speaking generally about the word feral; he did not taste La Follette's wine.]

But this is Chardonnay, not a wine like Pinot Noir that we often think of as having occasional foraged funk tendencies.

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Pot + Wine = Pot Wine (and a New Trend?)

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Anonymous
Pot + Wine
Roll up a towel, wedge it under the door, and put on a record -- Alice Coltrane or some pre-disco Bee Gees.  You may have to part the paisley curtains on your way in.  And find a comfy cushion to melt into.  Are we smoking weed?  Nah, we're drinking wine, man. According to a report in The Daily Beast late last week, it's the new thing.  

Michael Steinberger writes that marijuana-fermented wines are no longer a novelty but a full-blown trend, as more and more vintners throughout California's Central Coast and fertile northern valleys are combining two popular buzz-delivery systems in one bottle. Still sounds like a novelty to us, just a slightly less novel one -- now that The Daily Beast has blown up the spot like a straitlaced R.A. getting all vigilant on his rounds.

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Ben Flajnik: Winemaker First, TV's The Bachelor Second

Categories: Wine, Winemakers

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Sonoma Magazine
In the vineyard with The Bachelor and partners
Most people dream of quitting their day job to be on TV. ABC's The Bachelor Ben Flajnik says his reality star turn is a means to an end: His heart is in winemaking. (He auditioned for The Bachelorette originally as a way to pursue winemaking full-time). After his proposal was turned down last season, he was cast as the The Bachelor, where a lot of well-coiffed ladies angle for his attention (and date cards and roses).

Forget those picturesque horseback-riding dates in Park City, Utah, or dance-offs on Ellen or guest shots on The Chew with Mario Batali, what Flajnik says he really wants to do is make Sonoma Valley wine, along with middle-school friends Danny Fay and Michael Benziger (of the Benziger Family Winery clan). The roommates and business partners were in Los Angeles recently for promotional appearances and to set up new outlets for Envolve Winery, their Sonoma Valley winery that is sourced primarily from organic and biodynamic vineyards.

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Meteorito Wine Is Out of This World, Literally

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Flickr/Southern Foodways Alliance
a glass of Cab
Sure, that nice vintage Cabernet Sauvignon you have sitting in your wine cellar may have notes of dark chocolate and hints of sweet cherries, but does it really taste out of this world? No? Well then, you may want to head to Chile for the Meteorito, a red wine that is infused with the potentially tinny taste of a meteorite.

According to The Drinks Business, Meteorito creator Ian Hutcheon is both an amateur astronomer who owns his own observatory and a dedicated oenophile who owns his own vineyard in a former gold mine in Chile. As people who have both an observatory and a vineyard are wont to do, he decided to put a little bit of cosmo in his vino.

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Wine Gifts From The Other Guy, Courtesy Of Your Humble Grower

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buckzin.com
Bucklin: Same Zinfandel Grapes, Different Price
Ah, the holiday party wine gifting season. That time of year when you'll inevitably spot a bottle of Shafer Hillside Select sporting a shiny red bow among the hostess gifts -- right as you hand over a $19.99 Cabernet you snagged off the Ralph's weekly special list on the way to the boss' house (but it was really $30 full price, right?). When it comes to financial discrepancies, there are few times of year when it's more obvious that your wine budget is nowhere near that of your corporate superiors.

That's why we prefer to do a little upfront research and hand over wines with a great back story. There are plenty of growers who simply sell their top quality grapes to wineries (often used in high-end vineyard-designate wines, not blends). Many of them also happen to be winemakers on the side -- not for another winery, but for themselves. In other words, these are the wines they really wanted to make with their grapes if they weren't handing them over for the boss' pet project. (Sound familiar?)

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Yao Ming Expanding into the Wine World With "Yao Ming Wine"

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Xinhua
Yao Ming and his new wine
Given the size of the man's paws and his height relative to that of the hoop, the sight of Yao Ming shooting always made us think of a toddler dropping grapes into a plastic cup. The recently retired NBA star from Shanghai had a sweet shot, but the jury's still out on his new wine crafted from cabernet sauvignon grapes grown in California's Napa Valley.

Several days ago, Yao auctioned off a bottle of Yao Family Wines' "Yao Ming Wine" at a charity event for Special Olympics East Asia. The bottle sold for a breathtaking $23,499. The next 5,000 cases are going to be sold only in China. The cost will be lower -- a mere $278 per bottle -- but we're not talking Carlo Rossi here.

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Dave Matthews Introduces Line of Wines: The Dreaming Tree

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Dreaming Tree
Steve Reeder (left) and Dave Matthews have teamed up to create three wines

It's a different kind of crush for Dave Matthews. He may not want you to drink the water, but the musician has collaborated with award-winning winemaker Steve Reeder to create a line of vino they're calling Dreaming Tree Wines, after the Dave Matthews Band track "The Dreaming Tree" from the 1998 album "Before These Crowded Streets." (Ben & Jerry's had already claimed "One Sweet World/Whirled." Ice cream and wine aren't a good mix. But, we digress.)

The wines portfolio, founded and harvested in California's wine country, includes the 2010 Central Coast Chardonnay, 2009 North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon and 2009 North Coast Crush red (Merlot and Zinfandel) blend, available nationwide with a suggested retail price of $14.99. The collection of wines was developed in partnership with Constellation Wines U.S.

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Not Your Standard Thanksgiving Wine Pairings: Top Winemakers On The Tofurky Challenge

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www.yrousseauwines.com
Tofurky! Let's Toast! (Center: Yannick Rousseau, Y Rousseau Winemaker)
The problem with those incessant Thanksgiving food and wine pairing write-ups in every food publication this time of year? They all presume the food on your table will most certainly be Saveur magazine-worthy. Been there, drank that.

We wondered, what wine would we bring if a friend announced they are serving Tofurky (Surprise! Unless you happen to be a vegetarian, then congrats!) to go alongside their aunt's canned -- definitely not fresh -- green bean casserole? And yes, of course there will be boxed gravy on the side.

We asked several top winemakers to give us their pairing suggestions for that very meal, and they offered up a great list of bargains (and a few go-all-out Tofurky or regular turkey splurges, too). One caveat: They could not choose their own wines.

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Winemaker Q & A With Joel Peterson: On His First Thanksgiving Wine, Atomic Bombs + Alice Waters

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Joel Peterson
The Young Wine Fiend, Peterson, And His Mom (Center), 1955
Joel Peterson, founder of Ravenswood Winery, isn't exactly the sort of winemaker to veer off the conversation track into lilting conversations about the similarities between playing the bagpipes and making wine. Rather, Peterson is well-known as a savvy winemaker-turned-businessman who has long excelled at choosing top quality grape growers like the Teldelschi family rather than getting into the emotive side of the wine business. He is so adept at talking about exactly what he wants to (his wine brands), circling back to those unanswered questions in between Peterson's well-scripted announcements winds up being all part of the interview fun -- particularly when the conversation suddenly turns to atomic bombs, Elizabeth David and Alice Waters.

In a recent interview, just after pausing for effect in the midst of a literal 5K marathon story about scoring a top vintner's grapes, Peterson slipped in this little nugget: "Well, my mother, not my father, was actually who got the family into wine - she was a nuclear chemist who worked on the atomic bomb. She also re-worked recipes for Alice Water's first cookbook." What?! Tell us about that.

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The Chef vs. The Sommelier: Fig Restaurant's Pinot + Chardonnay Face-Off

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flickr user cherylknauer
Pinot or Chardonnay?
When we popped by Fig in Santa Monica recently for a Happy Hour glass of wine, sommelier Matthew Lehman was happy to chat about the new Fig Pinot Noir we spied on the menu -- Lehman helped make it under the watchful eye of La Fenetre winemaker Joshua Klapper. These days, it's pretty old news when a restaurant partners with a winemaker to "make" their wine label. And we all know the winemaker is really still the one doing all the heavy lifting.

But things got interesting when we heard about the friendly sommelier-chef spat over whose wine is better (Fig chef Ray Garcia made a Chardonnay at the same time Lehman made that Pinot Noir, information conveniently left off the bottles). "Oh, his is good, too," Lehman said with his characteristic sly smile. Yeah, we know what that means.

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