Wine Cellar: Master Sommelier Richard Betts on "Feral" Chardonnay
We've long been keen on winemaker Greg La Follette's Pinot Noir style, his bagpipe back story and the Friday night Bingo shirts he sports at wine tasting events. He's also weathered the wine business long enough that he doesn't worry about telling the whole wine truth, and nothing but the truth (so help his marketing department). Consider the label description on a recently released 2010 Sangiacomo Vineyard Chardonnay from his namesake winery: "Intriguing, almost feral aromas over bright, crisp structure." 
Flickr user prayitno A Feral Chardonnay?
"Wild, animal, funky, bloody, the smell of the bear cage at the zoo -- all of it," said Richard Betts when we asked him to clarify the definition (Betts is one of 120 or so Master Sommeliers in the U.S.; he also happens to be a winemaker and distiller). "Feral implies the presence of things that some technocrat winemakers call faults but romantic wine lovers often find full of allure," he continues. "I'll be amongst the lovers." [Note: Betts is speaking generally about the word feral; he did not taste La Follette's wine.]
But this is Chardonnay, not a wine like Pinot Noir that we often think of as having occasional foraged funk tendencies.
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