Los Angeles - Björk's brass band, Amy's do-do, Rufus' caftan: Coachella, Day One - Style Council

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Björk's brass band, Amy's do-do, Rufus' caftan: Coachella, Day One

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April 28, 2007 3:04 AM

"How's my do-doing? Sometimes I'm dancing and my hair'll be on another stage." -- Amy Winehouse

"I may look great, but I smell like shit." --Rufus Wainwright

"Tsenkuveerymush!" -- Björk

We (aerial maestro and serious Björk fan Eric Newton and me) got here just in time for Amy Winehouse, who sounded even better refusing to go to rehab live, and better on every song than she does on her record. It's a sure sign that she ain't fakin' it. She's teeny tiny, wore short-shorts and a midriff top, and then there's that hair. We learned from this experience not to despair if you're stuck in the back of the Gobi tent -- the attrition rate is high. You will work your way up.

Eric went to see Rufus Wainwright at the Mojave stage while I stayed for Julieta Venegas in the Gobi. Eric on Rufus: "Resplendent in his hooded caftan, which he removed to reveal matching striped shirt and shorts, he referred to himself as 'faggy Sinatra.'" He did mostly new stuff, reportedly. Me on Julieta: She decided to say everything twice, in English and Spanish ("it's a bilingual place, Coachella"), played all her hits ("Lento"; "Quiseras Andar Con Migo"; "Limon y Sal"; "Me Voy") and jammed hard on that accordion. She looked cute in her purple dress and stringy hair. Two pigs in suits briefly joined her on stage.

We took in a little of each of the following: Brazilian Girls (for "Sexy Asshole"); Jarvis Cocker (for "Cunts Still Rule the World" -- see a pattern here?); Faithless ("Mass Destruction," fine to dance to, and so good for you -- politically speaking. Fear is a WMD, all right.).

Björk lined up a 12-woman brass band behind her (I kept calling it the "breast band," by accident) and the sound was immense, twisted, complicated, perfect. Especially on "Bachelorette" and "Joga." To be so far from the stage and still know you saw a killer show, like something from another planet . . . astonishing. Inspired art direction, too, though we would have liked more of her on the screen and less of the hands managing imaginary sound levels and playing roulette with digital runestones. Eric counted four new songs ("Earth Intruders" came first). She ended with "Pluto" and came back for an encore, "Declare Independence" (which is also on the free CD someone stuck on Eric's car, and which he will burn for me later).

Other notes: Don't think just because you're a vegan you'll get up to the front of the food line fast. This place is lousy with hippies -- the wait for the tempeh and tofu wraps was three times any of the others.

Try the wine margaritas in the little beer garden -- they're stronger.

The grounds are magical and beautiful -- we recognized a bunch of stuff from Burning Man, like the Victorian-era train. Also check out the renewable energy "energy store" exhibit. I mean, I didn't (beyond the "Nuclear Energy" panel: "Remember Chernobyl?" Yeah, 21 years ago yesterday . . . ). But I already know all that stuff.

And, finally, it isn't hard to get your car into the Coachella Festival (we got in fast on Monroe). But it sure is hard to get out. Björk wrapped up at 12:30; we didn't get out until almost 2. No lie. I'm not sure the way around this but there's got to be one. Please share if you know it.

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